Tips & Techniques
These tips are directly related to pattern #103 Moose in the Woods Pail.
Cutting Bias Strips
The diagonal of a square will have bias edges. To cut bias strips measure an equal distance along each right-angle side and make a mark. Make your first diagonal cut from these marks. Cut strips the width needed. Two fabrics that will be sewn together can be cut at the same time. Lightly steam pressing will help them stick to each other. Half yards will provide you with longer strips.
Assembling Bias Strip Units
Units can have two strips of two different fabrics or it can be a multiple strip set alternating colors. Sew with 1/4 seams along the longest edge.
Cutting Bias Squares
From the bias strip set bias squares can be cut using a square ruler. Establish your cutting line by laying your ruler on the strip with the 45 degree line on the seam between two fabrics. Start with the lower edge of the bias strip set. With a multiple bias strip set cut units one at a time either from left to with or right to left, always cut the low points first. You will get more squares from the multiple strip set than you will with only a two fabric strip set. Size up each square with your square ruler. Always press to the darker fabric unless there is a good reason not to in your project.
Get Organized-General Tips
When you begin a project that has a lot of pieces, mark cut sizes on a piece of masking tape with a ballpoint pen and place on each stack of pieces. This will make it much easier to see the pieces quickly as you need them. It is also a real good idea to stack these cut pieces on a moveable surface. This way you don't need to disturb the stacks of pieces taking them to your sewing machine.
Could Refer to Cuddle Quilts
When assembling a quilt block, layout the block in front of you, pick each piece up one at a time, matching it to the next piece. Make sure you keep your fingers on the side to be sewn and don't turn it around. Lay each piece back down, then pick up the next piece in the same manner. Sew a block row by row and then join the rows together. Be aware of the direction of the seams. Ideally they should be opposing seams. That may require some planning for it all to work out right.
Pressing/Ironing?
First there is a difference between pressing and ironing. You iron a shirt, you press a pieced block. When ironing you move the iron back and forth, when pressing you set the iron down on a seam and press without moving across the seam with the iron. Picking up the iron and setting it back down.
Seam Direction
It depends on your block. Sometimes you may want to press all seams to the darkest fabric. On smaller pieces you will want to press them open when piecing to reduce the bulk in a seam. When working with the flannels I press all the piecing block seams open, but press to one side when joining block rows together. Sometimes on the heavier flannels it's a good idea to press them again on the right side of the fabric to get it to stay put.
Stiletto-Tools
The use of a stiletto when piecing can prove to save you a lot of time fussing with matching pieces. You can keep the pieces feeding into the machine from turning as it is stitching. You can also hold the end of the piece so it doesn't kick out away from the machine. If you don't have stiletto a bamboo stick will do or a quilt pin.
Making Iron on Appliques
You can trace on the paper side of the wonder under fusible web with a pencil. Trace all like colored pieces in the same area. There will be less waste and also save you some time. Rough cut the pieces from the fusible web. This will also cut down on wasted fabric. Iron to the wrong side of the fabric. Don't over press, a quick 5 count is usually enough. If it looks as though it is going to separate you can touch it again for a few seconds. Allow time to cool before removing the backing.
Pressing Flannels
When piecing flannels for a block, press all seams open in the piecing construction. Press seams between pieces open, turn it over and press gently from the right side of the fabric. The mini iron is a great tool for this.
Pressing seams open on small blocks while your piecing will reduce the bulk and also make matching seams easier. The quilters' mini iron works great for these small seams.
Cutting Flannel
Some have trouble with flannel stretching or shifting when cutting. If your flannel seems to be coming out of shape, try this. First of all don't use steam, steam only makes it worse. Instead use a dry iron on a cotton setting. Treat wrong side of flannel lightly with spray sizing.
Machine Quilting
Always use a walking foot for machine quilting. There is no substitute for this accessory.
Baste with safety pins. For best results pin generously. A pin every 3-4 fingers wide. Have your layered quilt on a surface that will allow the pins to go through the quilt top only.
Work your quilting in a systematic way, always center out. This will allow any fullness to be worked to the outside. Starting from the center sew out in four directions, dividing the top into quarters. Work your quilting a quarter of the top at a time. In this way it is less likely you will miss a spot. When you have completed one quarter, rotate and work the next quarter.
Take the time to smooth out the quilt top and roll up to reach into the center. You may have to do this more often than you would like, but it well worth the effort. Your quilt will come out smooth without puckers here and there.
Try the machine quilting gloves that are available these days. They are very helpful in moving the quilt top around. They are especially good if you are stitching in the ditch on your project. You can gently smooth out the quilt with your hands spread slightly and get your stitching right.